Frequently Asked Questions

It usually earns its cost when the air handler and ducts are in the attic, because foam under the roof deck brings them inside the conditioned space. On a simple attic with no ductwork overhead, sealing the attic floor and adding blown-in insulation can do much of the same for less. We look first and tell you which applies.

National guides put installed foam at roughly $1.50 to $5.00 per square foot and a whole house at about $8,000 to $20,000 (HomeGuide) or $10,000 to $30,000 (Fixr). Attic size, roof shape, foam type and thickness, and any removal set the real number. We measure and give you a written estimate, which is the price you pay.

Closed-cell foam, at about R-5 to R-7 per inch (HomeGuide) versus roughly R-3.5 to R-3.7 for open cell. Higher R per inch is not the only factor, though. Under a Naples roof deck, open cell often reaches the target R-value at a lower cost, while closed cell is preferred where moisture or wind-driven rain is a concern.

The 8th Edition (2023) Florida Building Code, Energy Conservation lists R-38 for ceilings in Climate Zone 2, which includes Collier County. Wood-frame walls are listed at R-13 and concrete block (mass) walls at R-6, or R-4 continuous. Existing homes are not required to upgrade, but new work and permitted additions follow the code.

FPL's ceiling insulation page lists an instant $220 rebate for customers whose current attic insulation is below R-8, after a free home energy analysis, with the work done by one of FPL's approved participating contractors. Programs change, so check FPL's page and its contractor list before you book.

Florida's residential code limits foam near soil because of termites. Foam installed above grade has to stay at least 6 inches from exposed earth, and in very heavy termite areas it cannot go on the outside of foundation walls or under slabs. We keep foam where it can be inspected and does not invite termites.

Often, when ductwork or the air handler is in the attic, because foam under the roof deck brings that equipment into conditioned space. On an open attic with nothing overhead, air sealing and blown-in insulation may give similar comfort for less. We compare the options at your house.

Closed cell, at roughly R-5 to R-7 per inch per HomeGuide, versus about R-3.5 to R-3.7 for open cell. Open cell can still reach the target under a roof deck by going thicker, and it often costs less to get there.

Several chemical companies make professional two-part spray foam systems sold to trained installers. We tell you the exact product and its data sheet on the quote, so you can look up its fire rating and R-value yourself.

Manufacturers commonly call for vacating during spraying and for a ventilation period afterward, HomeGuide advises allowing 24 hours or more. We give you the time for the specific product before the job is scheduled.

The current Florida energy code lists R-38 for ceilings in Climate Zone 2, which covers Collier County. Existing homes do not have to upgrade, but R-38 is a sensible target when you add insulation.

Loose-fill insulation slows heat but does little to stop air. Hot, humid attic air keeps leaking through gaps under the new insulation unless they are sealed first.

The attic may run about as hot as before, but less of that heat reaches the rooms below. That is the point: the attic stays outside, the house stays inside.

It means the ducts and air handler sit in the hottest part of the house. Sealing duct joints helps, and foaming the roof deck brings them inside the conditioned space. We explain both.

Open-cell foam is vapor-open, so leaks usually show as staining. It is still important to fix the roof before spraying, which is why we inspect first.

Sometimes it comes out so the attic and house share air more freely, and sometimes it can stay. We explain the trade-off for your attic and price removal separately.

The attic is treated as part of the house, so it may need a small amount of conditioned air or a dehumidification plan. We point this out on the quote.

Yes, once the roof is complete and the deck is dry. Ask your roofer for the finish date and we will schedule after it.

Not easily. Block walls usually have only a thin furring space, so the practical time to add foam is when the drywall is off during a remodel. We will tell you if it is worth it otherwise.

The 8th Edition (2023) Florida energy code lists R-13 for wood-frame walls and R-6, or R-4 continuous, for mass walls such as block in Climate Zone 2.

Small holes are drilled, then plugged and patched. They need paint afterward, and we tell you in advance which walls are involved.

Sometimes, but attic heat and leaky ducts are more common causes. We check those first so you do not pay for the wrong fix.

In most cases, yes. Closed cell sticks to steel, resists moisture and stops the condensation that drips from bare panels once a building is cooled.

Sealing and insulating the walls and ceilings shared with the house usually helps the rooms next to the garage. Insulating the garage itself matters more if you plan to cool it.

Usually not well. Torn or sagging faced fiberglass is often removed so foam can bond to the steel.

Converting a garage to living space typically requires a permit from the building department. We insulate to the values on the approved plans.

If it was soaked and has matted, stained or smells, yes. Insulation that got a little damp and dried quickly may be fine. We look and tell you.

Sometimes, as part of a covered roof claim. That is between you and your insurer. We can give you a written scope and photos for your claim.

We stop and recommend testing. Suspect material is handled by a licensed abatement contractor, not by our crew.

Removal goes from the attic straight to bags or a truck through a protected path. Some dust is normal, and we clean up before we leave.